In March 1942, the US war production board issued regulation L-85, which put strict limitations on clothing and textiles. Resources were under immense strain and most natural fibres including wool and silk were needed for the manufacture of military uniforms and equipment - there were even strict limitations on zippers and buttons, which weren’t used unless absolutely necessary. The Victory Zoot is a collection made of deliberately ambiguous design details which simultaneously point to the patriotic and socially defiant civilian fashions of World War 2 America.